The 21st century was the dawn of a new era for Poland. After decades of war, colonisation and terrible poverty, the country became an EU state and the rest of the world suddenly woke up to what they’d been missing. Nowadays, the beautifully restored medieval streets of Gdańsk, Kraków and Wrocław are bursting with bars, artsy shops and – of course – tourists. Warsaw has gone from a model of post-Second World War desolation to an effervescent cultural and economic hub. And then there’s the serrated beauty of the Tatra Mountains, the sand dunes of the Baltic Coast and the north-east’s often-overlooked lake country. While the Holocaust memorials are still a heart-rending reminder of Poland’s tragic past, it feels like the scars of history are finally beginning to heal.